Restaurant Review By Jim Woolwin

West Virginia University

Mountaineer Parent Club,
Northern Virginia Chapter

Restaurant Review I
By Jim Woolwine

When Northern Virginians drive to Morgantown we see hardly a trace of the ethnic diversity that existed in West Virginia from the late 1800’s through early 1900’s when growth in mining and small manufacturing resulted in a huge influx of settlers, principally immigrants. The glass factories, metallurgy, barges, railroads, and attendant retail and commercial development provided the economic stimulus for Fairmont, Clarksburg, Morgantown, and numerous other small communities in this area to develop.

While most of these immigrant groups have since assimilated in the great American melting pot, Italian Americans continue to have a preponderant impact in the region --this is the lead-in to my restaurant review – and the local cuisine reflects this influence. From pepperoni rolls, Rose’s Restaurant, Oliverio’s, to Mario’s Fish Bowl, Italian cooking is a community staple.

The Aquarium, 750 Fairmont Road, Westover (Tel: (304) 225-3377) opened recently, and it is worth a detour. Reservations are needed for weekends. The cuisine is “American,” and given the name, fish and seafood are prime features. What sets this restaurant apart is the Italian touch. The bruschetta was simply outstanding, the pasta dishes tops, and the spaghetti sauce with hot sausage will remind you of the meal you had at that sidewalk café overlooking the Bay of Naples.

The restaurant is divided into three small rooms – fine dining, dining, and bar. The first two are non-smoking. When you call to reserve I recommend you specify which area you would prefer. Bon appetit!

Restaurant Review II
By Jim Woolwine

La Côte d’Azur on Bridgeport Hill.

So often the zest of discovery or the serendipity of finding a new restaurant jump starts a successful dining experience. Our most recent outing to the Provence Market Café in Bridgeport clearly falls in this category.

After the many years we lived in France and other francophone countries you may well imagine the thought of dining at a French restaurant in Bridgeport, WV, would raise a few serious eyebrows; well, it did. Despite the skepticism, college students are always broke and hungry, so with modest grumbling we piled in the car for the 45 minute drive down I-79. We had a great meal.

The menu (in French with English subtitles) said up front that this was classic French cuisine. It was very difficult for us to select only one first course or entrée as we were sorely tempted to try everything. As first course choices, the tuna carpaccio and the mussels meunière were exquisite. Choices were priced from $5.95 to $9.95; the menu also proposed a variety of soups, salads, and cheeses, and of course escargots. Rounding out our selections we had a perfectly chilled Vouvray wine, French baguettes, tapenade and butter.

Provence connotes strong colors such as the yellows reflected in paintings by Vincent Van Gogh. This café accents lavender, predominant in the mountainous areas of Provence and is the source of many French perfumes. The restaurant’s spacious interior was anchored by a fireplace at one end and a wall of curtain panels in Bleu, Blanc, Rouge. As we were dining, customers filled the room nearly to capacity.

Our main courses included wild mushroom linguine, steak au poivre, and salmon Mediterraneen. Each entrée was excellent, with particular mention of the wild mushroom linguine. Main course options range in price from $12.95 to $19.95. An Australian red wine complimented this course. It was very reasonably priced at $24.00 the bottle.

The dessert selection again prompted an extended discussion. Fortunately Ann Hart, the owner and WVU graduate, helped us narrow our focus to the crème brulée, a pot au chocolat, and the tarte aux myrtilles and a fine cup of expresso to accompany. These desserts were melt-in-your-mouth French; they crowned a wonderful dining experience in a most unexpected setting.

The Provence Market Café, 603 South Virginia Avenue, Bridgeport, WV (304) 848-0911, is located off US Route 50 East at junction of I-79. Website: www.provencemarketcafe.com.

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